I do not remember exactly when this elite dish entered my life. All that remember is that I have been eating Biriyani - the queen of all dishes – right from my childhood. What I remember very clearly was that, on 8th of every month, which happens to be our dad’s salary day, along with other snacks, he used to get Biriyani for us. Most of the time, the Biriyani was got from the “Ibrahim Kadai” - a shop near our home, on his way from office. This Ibrahim Kadai is very famous there and almost everyone passing by the shop for work to the Railway Workshop will have a tea there and then proceed to their work.
My father, being an ardent tea fan used to have tea there atleast 4 times there, once while going for work, once while coming home for lunch, once during returning back to work after lunch and once in the evening while returning back from work. I guess thorough his frequent visits he became close to the “Bhai”, who was the owner of the shop. He was a humble man in his early sixties, sitting in the Kalla, welcoming everyone with a smile. Most of the time he wont be wearing a shirt and will be found only in his lungi.
On Diwali eve, our dinner invariably used to be the “Vaankoli Biriyani”, mostly from the Ibrahim Kadai. One day my father had told the Bhai that his kids wanted him to prepare the Biriyani in home. And Bhai was kind enough that he disclosed the receipe of the Biriyani to my father. One fine day, a sunday, father and mother decided to prepare in home. I still remember all the events that happed on the day. It was more or less a festive day at home. Early in the morning the preparations started. Mom was peeling lots of onions and garlic and taking other things ready. Being the first assistant to my father when he cooks, Mom was getting everything ready. Appa was also helping her then and there. We three, Me and my little sisters, being assistant to the assistant, were helping my mother.
The preparation went on elaborately, spices were ground, rice and meat was cooked, then combined together and mixed. Then it was kept for ‘Dhum’, a process in which red hot coal were placed on top of the lid of the container having the Biriyani. It was getting late and we all were hungry. I , with the help of my sisters, was cutting down the big onions and mixing it with curd, on my mom’s instructions to prepare the “Venkaya pachadi” – a side dish for Biriyani, which later acquired its
North-Indianized name – “Raitha”. Amma also prepared another side dish with Brinjal, the “Saalna”, which used to have a sort of sour taste.We had the Biriyani in late afternoon and it was the best Biriyani I ever had. Until night I was taking rounds and having the Biriyani again and again. After this, Biriyani was cooked atleast once in 3 three months. Amma also learnt the art of making Biriyani in due course of time. Later when my friend entered my family, she also learnt it from my Amma and in our home now, quite often Biriyani is prepared. But the receipe got from the Ibrahim Kadai Bhai is maintained as a sort of secret within the family, and not dis-closed to anyone even with the extended family.
After moving to Chennai, I had the chance to taste different varieties of Biriyani. I was surprised to find that the Mogul Biriyani has a sweet taste with some sugar content in it. One bad thing I noticed in Chennai is that they cook the base rice with the spices, and have chicken, mutton and egg separately. This base rice then becomes chicken, mutton or egg Biriyani based on what is kept inside that rice and served. This type of Biriyani lacks the taste of the native chicken or mutton Biriyani. Later I came to know that even Fish and Prawn Biriyani existed. My favorite is chicken or mutton Biriyani, with a chicken fry side dish and a boiled egg.
Even now, all the days on which Biriyani is prepared, is a festive day in home. Hope a day comes when I will prepare the Biriyani on my own and give the same happiness to my little friends, as that happened in our during my childhood.
